Scotland '24 (3 Jul. - 26 Jul.)

Introduction

Shetland had been on my wishlist for a while, and it didn't let me down! ;-) I found dramatic nature and lovely views, as well as sun, rain, wind, bogs, and puffins, but luckely no midges (yet). ;-) (I also found some places shown in TV series Shetland, and later also Vera when visiting Whitley Bay - both based on books by Ann Cleeves. ;-))

Preferring to stay on the ground, I headed for the most northerly ferry to Britain - IJmuiden, Netherland, to Newcastle - and then on to Aberdeen for ferry to Lerwick. Heading back I visited Grantown-on-Spey, Cupar and Whitley Bay, before leaving Britain.

I took about 1.400 photos with my DSLR camera and phone, showing 68 on this page, and filmed my walks - unedited recordings that can be found on my YouTube channel @kiltedviking.

Stockholm to Shetland

Travel included two overnight ferries - IJmuiden to Newcastle, 16 hours, and Aberdeen to Lerwick, 14.5 hours - and vacation (really) started with a tour of IJmuiden and its sanddunes.

Eight days on Shetland

I arrived in Lerwick with ferry on 7 July and headed straight for the far North of the Mainland, stopping to have coffee at Mavis Grind, an isthmus where boats were dragged from one side to the other (which I know as tarbet from West coast of Scotland).

Fethaland - the far North of Mainland (7th)

I had found a walk around Fethaland on Shetland's website, and made this my "introduction" to Shetland walks, which was and excellent idea, walking along the dramatic East coast of headland with a view of Yell on the other side of the water and what was ahead. Lunch was had at old fishing station at beach before heading back again along croft track - not forgetting to look back, but turning West towards Sandvoe to avoid cattle in field and then returning to start via road (adding on almost 3 km to walk ;-)).

Running out of time, I hadn't got time to head out to the lighthouse... But having checked in at Westings Inn, I was consoled with an excellent view from my room and while having breakfast the next day!

Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head - the far South (8th)

A nice view of island of Mouse was had before a visit to Jarlshof, a place containing structures from three different eras - wheelhouses from stoneage, longhouses by vikings and laird's house from later part of second centuary. This was followed by a walk to lighthouse and for close up views of puffins. ;-)

A quick visit to Levenwick beach was done before walking past "Jimmy's work" in Lerwick and then back to a lovely evening at Whiteness.

Ronas Hill - the highest point (9th)

With the weather good, I decided to climb Shetland's highest point - Ronas Hill of 450 meters - and its historic cairn (not to confuse with trig point) in hope of a good 360 degree view, which I got, including towards Foula, Muckle Flugga, Yell Sound, Tingon, Gruney, and Hillswick.

St. Ninian's Isle - walk on a tombolo (10th)

Picking up supplies, Scalloway, with its colourful houses, was walked before heading to St. Ninian's Isle, connected to the mainland by a tombolo - a toungue of sand with beachs on both sides - and was walked in strong wind, which added to the experience. ;-) (And as always, only leave footprints when out and about. ;-))

Heading back, crofting museum with its mill was visited before passing the 60th parallel (with Levenwick in the background).

Hermaness - Britain's most Northerly point (11th)

Hermaness is a nature reserve with a lot of seabirds and a view to Muckle Flugga with the most Northerly point and lighthouse in Britain.

Getting to Hermaness includes two ferries and crossing islands Yell and Unst. Bobby's bus shelter was visited on the way, this time with a frog theme. ;-) At Hemaness, the path West was followed to the West coast, turning North along cliffs with birds and stone arch, before getting a view of Muckle Flugga with its lighthouse, as well as towards Ronas Hill and Fethaland. Lunch was had getting a close view of Muckle Flugga.

On way back, a visit to Haroldswick longhouse and viking ship was made, as well as standing stone at Lunda before leaving Unst. A visit to Barravoe on Yell was also had.

Mousa - best preserved broch (12th)

Having first been fooled to believe that access to island was denied because of avian flu, I was elated to learn that ferry was running! Visit starts with a 10 minute boatride from Sandwick to the island of Mousa and a 10 minute walk, passing bench at 60th parallel, to broch (or about 50 minutes if going the other way around the island). The broch is situated across from another broch on the mainland and its location is stunning.

A failed attempt to get a Burra Bear lead to a visit to Sands of Meal.

Culswick - broch with a view (13th)

Having only one day of exploring left, a choice was made to view a part of Shetland not yet seen - the West. A stop of for view over Weisdale and a visit to Stanydale Temple was made before heading to Culswick for a walk to its broch, not quite as tall as that on Mousa.

Walk starts at methodist church and follows a track most of the way to Culswick broch. The walk also demonstrated some dramatic weather and (again) reminded me to look back every now and then. ;-) Visits were made to Walls and Sandness, with church and view towards Papa Stour.

Lerwick - "civilisation" (14th)

Leaving on the night ferry, I decided to stay close to harbour and walk around Lerwick, with its old tollbooth, and visit museums.

Having seen the TV series Shetland, I had to have a look at "Jimmy's beach" (Bain's beach) and "Jimmy's house" (The Lodberrie) on way to the Knab, from where weather was checked before leaving on boat. ;-) Fort Charlotte and Shetland Museum & Archives were also visited.

Walks not taken on Shetland

Below are some walks I had looked at but never had time for, which I found and planned based on sources on right (or below).

• Ram's Head Lighthouse, Whiteness
• Muckle Roe Lighthouse,
• Eshaness (including a lighthouse ;-); this is supposed to be spectacular)
• Fladdabister
• Banna Minn and West Voe circular
• Bressay and Noss

Back on "mainland"

This part of trip involved seeing parts of Scotland not seen before, or only at short stops, like Grantown-on-Spey.

Balmedie, Cruden Bay and Grantown (15th)

Awarded beach of Balmedie was visited as well as Cruden Bay with Slains castle - an inspiration for the book about Dracula - before heading for Grantown-on-Spey.

Dava Moor - the old railway line (16th)

With a family connection to cottages next to Lady's Halt - the gatehouse to Castle Grant that was joined with railway bridge over road to Nairn (and Forres) - I headed North along the old railway line (Inverness and Perth Junction Railway, I&P JR) - now part of The Dava Way - and finshed at Dava Summit (1059 feet), or just beyond summit. (Also enjoyed the thistles. ;-))

Anagash Woods, Cromdale and River Spey (17th)

The plan was to walk along River Spey to Cromdale and then return via another railway (Strathspey Railway), but things changed. I started off following The Speyside Way through Anagash Woods to bridge over to Cromdale and then back along Spey River, passing under Old Grantown Bridge.

Cupar, Newtyle, and Whitley Bay

Heading South

Time for exploring places from family's past - Grantown-on-Spey, Pitlochry and Newtyle, among them - after visiting Lochindorb to look at castle and stopping off for the night in Perth.

Cupar and Newtyle (19th - 21st)

Visit to Cupar started off with a visit to Granny's and her parent's graves in Newtyle and a nice lunch in Meigle, stopping of at Pictish stone. Walking to shop, an interesting set of staircases was found.

Kirkcaldy, Abbotsford and Kelso (22nd)

Having been given the book Who built Scotland, I decided to tick off more buildings described in the book - Maggie's House in Kirkcaldy, Abbotsford House in Abbotsford and prefab houses in Kelso. The first building was found outside the entrance of Victoria Hospital in Kirkcaldy, the second was skipped of both time constriction and cost, and the third may or may not have been found. :-S

(This brings me up to having visited 13 of the 25 places in the book Who built Scotland [or 10...]: Cairnpapple Hill, Mousa Broch, Glasgow Cathedral, Edinburgh Castle, [The Great Hall at Stirling Castle], Charlotte Square in Edinburgh, Glenlivet Distillery, Bell Rock Lighthouse, [Abbotsford], The Forth Bridge, [Inchmyre Prefabs], Sullom Voe, and Maggie's Centre.)

Whitley Bay and Tynemouth (22nd - 23rd)

A night was spent in Whitley Bay, enjoying a last curry, a wet evening with magical views of beach and lighthouse, passing "Vera's cafe" (sticking to my "Ann Cleeves theme" ;-)) and Spanish City, followed by a sunny morning taking in same views plus Cullercoats and Tynemouth. Departure on boat was had in glorious sunny weather.